Candles were bloody expensive. Consider that in the 14th-15th C. a cow was worth about 8 shillings, or about 96 silver pennies (basically a gp). From that cow, you could probably get 300-400lbs of meat (you can get more from a modern steer, but 600 years of selective breeding have made cows bigger), so that's about a farthing (one-quarter of a silver penny) for a pound of beef (not counting butchery, etc., as people often did that themselves back then).
Compare that to tallow candles at about 2d/lb, or wax candles at about 6d/lb.
Keep in mind, that in this period, wages for unskilled labour were in the range of 1d/day.
Making a wildly inappropriate comparison to modern-day minimum wages, that's the equivalent of paying something like $250 for a pound of candles.
So you can see why many people using rushlights (reed stems soaked in fat or pitch) or splinters (splinters soaked in fat or pitch), both of which were more or less free (if you were willing to pick the rushes and gather the pitch yourself).
But back to dungeoneering.
Candles are a not really a great source of light, probably comparable to a period oil lamp, but you can get a candle lantern for them. This helps with dazzling, and with the candle going out from the wind of walking around (seriously, that's enough to put out a candle, or at least make it pour scalding wax on your hand - candles suck).
Even a big double-wick candle isn't throwing enough light for you to see OK-ish more than about 10-15', with dim shadows twice that. Reading requires a candle to be within a foot or so.
But at least you're not blinding your friends with your torch, or worrying about spilling the oil out of your lamp.
EDIT: Forgot to include burn times. A one-pound candle would burn for about 70 hours. Not too shabby.
Showing posts with label dungeoneering tools. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dungeoneering tools. Show all posts
20 February 2013
7 February 2013
Dungeoneering Tools: The Torch
Dazzling
First off, dazzling your friends is one problem with a torch I've never seen considered. While the person carrying the torch can hold it over their head, and thus get full benefit of the light, anyone walking behind them will either a) have the torch in their field of view, and will be dazzled, or b) have to look at the ground.
Walking to either side of the torch-bearer would be fine. Being in front of the torch-bearer obviously means dealing with your own shadow.
As for what this means in gameplay terms, I would say anyone walking behind the torch-bearer is dazzled, and isn't getting full benefit from the torchlight. Say, halve the illuminated distance.
Probably won't come up too much, but something to think about.
Variations
There are a few important versions of the "torch" to consider.
Most familiar to people would be a stick with pitch-soaked fabric tied to the top with wire, so I won't talk any further about it.
Other versions include the splinter, rushlight, cresset/basket, candle/stick, bark/tinder, simple stick, and animal torches.
Of these, only the cresset/basket, candle/stick, and the bark/tinder torches are practical for mobile use - splinters and rushlights are for lighting a home or tent.
Cresset/basket
I touched on the cresset in a previous post - it consists of a hinged light source on a pole. This source can be a lamp, or it can be a basket of burning material. This is pretty self-explanatory, I think - tinder and small sticks (possibly soaked in pitch, resin, or fat) burn in an iron basket on the top of the cresset.
The obvious advantage of this is the ease of finding material for it - burning pitch-soaked cloth or wood would be best, but at a pinch you could just chop up some wood and toss it in. It's also probably a little easier to just have a sack of pitch-soaked pine and a single cresset than a bundle of bulky torches.
Candle/stick
Candle torches consist of maybe 3 feet of heavy candle (4" across) on a wooden handle. This seems a little odd to me, especially given the historically high prices of candles, but there is historical evidence for this.
These would, to my mind, be primarily a status item for wealthy people walking around in the town. As candle-wax could cost as much as 4 times as much as meat, this would be an exceedingly expensive torch.
Bark/tinder
Bark and tinder torches consist of a core of pitch-, resin-, or fat-soaked tinder wrapped in bark. This is a primitive but effective type of torch that can burn as long as 2 hours, 1 hour probably being typical. These are pretty bulky, being maybe 12" in diameter at the top, and 4" in diameter at the bottom, and maybe 3' long.
The advantage of this is the ease of preparation - this could be constructed with little effort anywhere you have access to pine trees (for the tinder and pitch), hardwood trees (for the bark), and a day or so to collect the materials and make the torches.
Simple Stick
This is just a stick where the end has been smashed into splinters and soaked in pitch, resin, or similar.
Obvious advantage is simplicity and ease of manufacture, the disadvantage is that it's not as bright and doesn't last as long.
Animal Torches
Certain animals (candlefish, storm petrel) have such a high fat proportion that there are accounts of people using them as torches. Simply catch one, stick a wick (made of moss, cotton, or similar) in its mouth, and strap the beast to a stick.
Not going to make much light, but could be cool for "barbaric" NPC's.
Waterproof Torch
Wikipedia has an uncited entry claiming that the Romans made a torch with sulfur and lime that would not go out if submerged.
I'm sceptical, but it would probably be possible to make something like this, as quicklime does heat up considerably when wet.
Whether or not this is true or historically accurate, I think it might be interesting to be able to make waterproof torches.
First off, dazzling your friends is one problem with a torch I've never seen considered. While the person carrying the torch can hold it over their head, and thus get full benefit of the light, anyone walking behind them will either a) have the torch in their field of view, and will be dazzled, or b) have to look at the ground.
Walking to either side of the torch-bearer would be fine. Being in front of the torch-bearer obviously means dealing with your own shadow.
As for what this means in gameplay terms, I would say anyone walking behind the torch-bearer is dazzled, and isn't getting full benefit from the torchlight. Say, halve the illuminated distance.
Probably won't come up too much, but something to think about.
Variations
There are a few important versions of the "torch" to consider.
Most familiar to people would be a stick with pitch-soaked fabric tied to the top with wire, so I won't talk any further about it.
Other versions include the splinter, rushlight, cresset/basket, candle/stick, bark/tinder, simple stick, and animal torches.
Of these, only the cresset/basket, candle/stick, and the bark/tinder torches are practical for mobile use - splinters and rushlights are for lighting a home or tent.
Cresset/basket
I touched on the cresset in a previous post - it consists of a hinged light source on a pole. This source can be a lamp, or it can be a basket of burning material. This is pretty self-explanatory, I think - tinder and small sticks (possibly soaked in pitch, resin, or fat) burn in an iron basket on the top of the cresset.
The obvious advantage of this is the ease of finding material for it - burning pitch-soaked cloth or wood would be best, but at a pinch you could just chop up some wood and toss it in. It's also probably a little easier to just have a sack of pitch-soaked pine and a single cresset than a bundle of bulky torches.
Candle/stick
Candle torches consist of maybe 3 feet of heavy candle (4" across) on a wooden handle. This seems a little odd to me, especially given the historically high prices of candles, but there is historical evidence for this.
These would, to my mind, be primarily a status item for wealthy people walking around in the town. As candle-wax could cost as much as 4 times as much as meat, this would be an exceedingly expensive torch.
Bark/tinder
Bark and tinder torches consist of a core of pitch-, resin-, or fat-soaked tinder wrapped in bark. This is a primitive but effective type of torch that can burn as long as 2 hours, 1 hour probably being typical. These are pretty bulky, being maybe 12" in diameter at the top, and 4" in diameter at the bottom, and maybe 3' long.
The advantage of this is the ease of preparation - this could be constructed with little effort anywhere you have access to pine trees (for the tinder and pitch), hardwood trees (for the bark), and a day or so to collect the materials and make the torches.
Simple Stick
This is just a stick where the end has been smashed into splinters and soaked in pitch, resin, or similar.
Obvious advantage is simplicity and ease of manufacture, the disadvantage is that it's not as bright and doesn't last as long.
Animal Torches
Certain animals (candlefish, storm petrel) have such a high fat proportion that there are accounts of people using them as torches. Simply catch one, stick a wick (made of moss, cotton, or similar) in its mouth, and strap the beast to a stick.
Not going to make much light, but could be cool for "barbaric" NPC's.
Waterproof Torch
Wikipedia has an uncited entry claiming that the Romans made a torch with sulfur and lime that would not go out if submerged.
I'm sceptical, but it would probably be possible to make something like this, as quicklime does heat up considerably when wet.
Whether or not this is true or historically accurate, I think it might be interesting to be able to make waterproof torches.
4 February 2013
Dungeoneering Tools: The Lantern & Oil
The Lantern
When most people think of a D&D lantern, they're thinking of something like this:
When most people think of a D&D lantern, they're thinking of something like this:
These did not exist until the 19th century. They are not available in a 14-15th century world.
Your D&D "lantern" likely is more of an oil lamp, and would look more like this:
This is the kind of lamp that existed in the Middle Ages. More or less a reusable candle. No chimney, small wick, probably made of clay or brass.
Another option would be the cresset, as seen here. More or less an oil lamp on a stick, but with a hinge so it stays upright. Could also apply to little braziers for other fuels similarly mounted.
UPDATE: Candle lanterns are the only period form of lantern I can find:
Oil
Similarly, when people think of lamp oil, they're thinking of kerosene. Stinky, low viscosity, and rather flammable.
That is not what lamp oil was back then.
Lamps were fueled with whale oil or vegetable oil. Not really the same thing.
Try to imagine dousing someone in olive oil and setting them on fire. Not bloody likely.
EDIT: Burn times for oil lamps. For a smallish oil lamp, you should get 4-5 hours of light out of an ounce of oil.
1 February 2013
Dungeoneering Tools: The 10' Pole
Much the same problems here as the spear, only more so.
Incidentally, the European Quarterstaff was typically in the 7-12' range, so the 10' pole and the quarterstaff can be considered to be the same thing. Some masters recommend a 7-8' staff, George Silver recommends a behemoth staff of 9-12'. Crazy.
People like having a long stick around so they can poke things and not get hurt. But how do people feel about doorways? Corners? I like being able to move around.
Leave the 10' pole at home. Or else pick between:
Incidentally, the European Quarterstaff was typically in the 7-12' range, so the 10' pole and the quarterstaff can be considered to be the same thing. Some masters recommend a 7-8' staff, George Silver recommends a behemoth staff of 9-12'. Crazy.
People like having a long stick around so they can poke things and not get hurt. But how do people feel about doorways? Corners? I like being able to move around.
Leave the 10' pole at home. Or else pick between:
- your movement rate takes a 33% hit (being careful with the pole)
- you never surprise your foes (pole ends up bumping off everything)
29 January 2013
Dungeoneering Tools: The Spear
Upcoming Series
I'm going to start a series covering my take on common weapons and tools used in dungeoneering. First up: the spear.
Misconceptions
It's a common misconception that the spear is a perfect dungeoneering weapon, and I think this misconception comes from the idea that all you do with a spear is poke people with the pointy end. While that's certainly a key point of the art of spearfighting, it's far from the whole picture.
I should point out here that I'm not talking about soldiers in a phalanx (which most RPG's don't deal with), but rather about single/small group melees.
I recently bought two 8' hardwood shafts to use for spear drills. My first reaction on bringing them into my house? "Crap, these are big!" Historical spears ranged from about 6' to maybe 9', so my spears are on the long side, but my conclusions hold more or less for 6' spears.
There is almost no way I could effectively fight with a spear indoors. Navigating through hallways is a pain. Doorways are a bigger pain. Corners are a pain. Turning the spear around is impossible without whacking into walls and bumping off furniture.
Much of spear-fighting consists of off-line guards - holding the spear vertically, or pointing it straight backwards. These off-line guards allow a strong parry with a turn of the hips, knocking aside your opponents weapon and leaving them open to a thrust to the face.
If your spear is parried, you can take the energy of the parry, and swing the back end of the spear around. This counter-parries, and allows you to strike with the butt.
These turning motions are *critical* to spear combat.
Conclusions
Trying to do them in an enclosed space with other warriors around you would be difficult at best, and impossible at worst. My experience fumbling around with an 8' pole in my house has convinced me of that.
Trying to fight without them would be lead to a marked reduction in spear effectiveness - something on the order of halving your combat effectiveness, I would say.
Mechanical Applications
For D&D - halve your AC, and miss on any to-hit roll of 10 or less when spearfighting in an enclosed space.
For S&S - no Attack or Defense bonus from your spear, miss on any to-hit roll of 10 or less.
I'm going to start a series covering my take on common weapons and tools used in dungeoneering. First up: the spear.
Misconceptions
It's a common misconception that the spear is a perfect dungeoneering weapon, and I think this misconception comes from the idea that all you do with a spear is poke people with the pointy end. While that's certainly a key point of the art of spearfighting, it's far from the whole picture.
I should point out here that I'm not talking about soldiers in a phalanx (which most RPG's don't deal with), but rather about single/small group melees.
I recently bought two 8' hardwood shafts to use for spear drills. My first reaction on bringing them into my house? "Crap, these are big!" Historical spears ranged from about 6' to maybe 9', so my spears are on the long side, but my conclusions hold more or less for 6' spears.
There is almost no way I could effectively fight with a spear indoors. Navigating through hallways is a pain. Doorways are a bigger pain. Corners are a pain. Turning the spear around is impossible without whacking into walls and bumping off furniture.
Much of spear-fighting consists of off-line guards - holding the spear vertically, or pointing it straight backwards. These off-line guards allow a strong parry with a turn of the hips, knocking aside your opponents weapon and leaving them open to a thrust to the face.
If your spear is parried, you can take the energy of the parry, and swing the back end of the spear around. This counter-parries, and allows you to strike with the butt.
These turning motions are *critical* to spear combat.
Conclusions
Trying to do them in an enclosed space with other warriors around you would be difficult at best, and impossible at worst. My experience fumbling around with an 8' pole in my house has convinced me of that.
Trying to fight without them would be lead to a marked reduction in spear effectiveness - something on the order of halving your combat effectiveness, I would say.
Mechanical Applications
For D&D - halve your AC, and miss on any to-hit roll of 10 or less when spearfighting in an enclosed space.
For S&S - no Attack or Defense bonus from your spear, miss on any to-hit roll of 10 or less.
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